Tuesday, March 24, 2015

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2015 - From My Angle.

I had the enormous pleasure to attend Nicolas Ghesquière's fourth collection for the maison Louis Vuitton. It's been a year already since the fashion world discovered his first, low-key collection for the brand and ever since the concept becomes ever more clearer. 

I usually take a bit of time to think about a collection, look at it a few more times and only then I’m comfortable sharing my thoughts - it just feels right to digest all the information first. This time it took longer- to be precise 3 seasons. We've seen the first collection, we've seen Resort and after the Spring Summer 2015 show and various stops at LV stores the story got more realized. 

After a year of following the brand closely it is clear to me that Mr. Ghesquière is mainly doing one, big and new thing: building an entire wardrobe rather than focusing on each season. It seems to be a long process of looking into the future in this fast-fashion world we live in and damn - thank you for that. 
Sure, each season has some sort of leading "theme" but each collections core ideas remain unchanged: traveling, a must when it comes to LV and how personality is reflected by how every single woman puts on the clothes differently and mixes elements together individually. It's about being unique. Clothes that reflect every aspect of the multi faced life of the modern woman from romantic lingerie inspired blouses to strict work wear, clothes that grow with the woman and that have the capacity to be used in various situations depending of how they are styled.

It’s shown the best at the newly opened Louis Vuitton Store at avenue Montaigne in Paris: instead of replacing older collections by the newest one, you go from room to room and have all the collections in one shop, starting from the first one. You can find a big sweater from one year ago if you’re looking for it and 5 minutes later you can mix it with the newest Spring Summer 2015 pants only a few steps further away. Brilliant if you ask me – it’s like walking into a huge closet where you can pick and choose the pieces designed by Nicolas Ghesquière so that they reflect you best.

Personality is another big theme in this whole concept, the idea that every woman is different and is going to interpret the same pieces differently. Ghesquière mentioned before that he took some inspiration from Edie Sedgwick, the queen of breaking conventional rules and mixing everything from vintage to high end brands back in the sixties and seventies. If Edie is known for one thing then it is how her way to dress reflected her quirky, capturing personality.

What is interesting about Ghesquière’s concept of Louis Vuitton is that photography is so closely interwoven with the actual fashion here: Juergen Teller captures the girls in random moments where they are introduced by their first name, THEN only the list of what they wear starts. It gives you the impression of being close to the showed girl, it shows some kind of personality coming through just by one single word: the name. The girls are no longer just models, they are themselves wearing clothes. Again – the pieces fit to the woman, not the other way around.

For the Fall Winter 2015 collection the idea of showing personality was taken to a new level by Ghesquière and Teller yet again: the series “Ladies at the bath” don’t show any LV pieces but they focus on the girls, their faces, the way they move. With the casting of the women ranging from the coy looking Rianne van Rompaey to the domineering look of Mica Arganaraz it is to me a huge homage to women and individuality.

So, rather than talking about each collection as I usually do – not here. It feels so much more important to see the bigger picture and what happens: for the first time in a long time we have an actual counterpart to the fast food fashion society we’ve turned into and that we live in. For the first time we’re offered a collection that pays homage to the woman in every situation of her life, a brand that puts girls names, faces and personality into the foreground.

Is it too much to say that instead of writing another chapter in fashion history Mr. Ghesquière rather writes a chapter in the book of how to celebrate every one of us out there, an homage to each woman?

all pictures by me.

Thursday, March 19, 2015

On The Wishlist: Ports 1961 FW15 Sneakers

Good times for people who have no particular love for sneakers! I'm not quite a fan, but with the huge success they had lately lots of designers come up with more and more creative versions and ideas. You certainly know about my Dior Fusion obession; I recently added a pair of plain black runnings to my tiny collection and these here are going to be next on the list: the white leather knot detail gives them a really minimalistic yet fun look. 

At least they are not Stan Smiths - can someone explain me that hype around these trainers lately?!
They've just been around since 1971. Calm down folks.

picture from instagram.

Sunday, March 15, 2015

Cheetah Is Back: FW15

How many people I work with always tell me that cheetah is "déjà vu" and totally "out" ?! I hate the idea of something being "in" or "out"; it personally never occurred to me to like or dislike something just because of what people around tell me. If I like something, I truly do and it stays like that. Cheetah is one of these typical prints, it's something I never get tired of, as shirts, as pants, shoes, coats. It's one of my favorite big classics for a woman's closet, it's so versatile to work with and to wear. As a designer it always makes me dream how you can turn around this simple pattern: fur, colored, jacquard, printed, leather, jersey, handbags, shoes - you get it: there are no limits on how you can use it. It remains a classic you can freshen up however you want, and somehow it feels like even if I buy a bright blue cheetah coat - it's still going to be awesome and modern in 10 years. It's easy enough to wear everyday but yet bold enough to add something cute/sexy/refined to your outfit. It lifts everything up. You understand: I truly love cheetah. Ironically I'm still looking for the perfect cheetah coat. Now firstly I'm well happy to be able to tell all the people who tried to get me away from that feline love that it makes a huge comeback and secondly I think that this winter my perfect cheetah coat is finally going to be a part of my wardrobe. Now the only question is: rather colored or natural? Maybe both. Here are my personal favorites from the parisian shows.

Louis Vuitton: hairy knitwear/jersey mix (little surprise) transformed into a light yet warm coat without lining, bright yellow and orange jacquard. The cut gives you round & small shoulders visually - for a preppy, rigorous look. Mr. Ghesquière works on building a wardrobe at Louis Vuitton: here is your bold yet easy coat for every day. Some color, très cute & très strong, très wearable.

MiuMiu: I loved the MiuMiu show this season. This coat was my absolute favorite, printed, flat fabric for a graphic silhouette. That would not be very MiuMiu without some retro touches: round shirt details on the lower sleeves to break the sharp body shape, big retro buttons in plain blue. The perfect touch: natural python on the collar. Did I mention that I feel the same about snake prints than I feel about cheetah? The two together are killing it. A real fun touch that never goes out of fashion. We've seen the mix tons of times before, yet it never gets boring. Big statement coat, maybe not for "tous les jours".

Saint Laurent: A-line, slightly long cape or coat (I was not able to tell what exactly it is because of the big volume of the body that opens up nicely while walking) in natural cheetah printed on pony fur. The length and A-line shape don't make it very easy to wear but the natural colors bring it back to the streets: A good classic, even if I would rather go for a straight body shape for a less girly look, a sharper and more masculine cut is more my cup of tea. The pony fur adds to the price tag - but definitely a gorgeous piece, the colors are in perfect shades of natural. Yes, because it is actually difficult to find "good" natural colors and create a good balance between them. 

all pictures via style.com

Print Paradise: Marc By Marc Jacobs FW15

Marc By Marc Jacobs has been close to my favorites ever since Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier have been named creative directors. Their mix between classic prints, bold writings combined with little details such as punk inspired velvet lacings brings a fresh air to the brand and adds a bold streetstyle note to it - revisited basics you just want to include into your everyday wardrobe. After all we can all use a splash of youth and color.

all pictures via style.com

Wednesday, March 4, 2015

Céline SS15 Accessories.

The mix between a simple black silk band and Limoges Porcelain is the ultimate form of understated and precious luxury. I'll take the hand pendant please.
But be careful: these babies break easily!

all pictures via céline.com

Sunday, March 1, 2015

The Need To Learn.

Can you imagine sitting behind the same desk for almost 4 years? I know it's not long compared to our fathers and mothers 30 years of work but at one point even the most joyful and happy job gets a bit repetitive and it makes you crave something new - and I love it! This kind of "positive boredom" as I like to call it made me start drawing again after all these years, makes me continue to draw and I recently started thinking about styling a lot more. I am in a constant need of progression and learning, so why not teach yourself a little bit in the moments where work can't teach you? I can't wait to show you the pictures of a little photo session I had with some other motivated friends and strangers that become friends - being creative and learning makes people come together. I have exciting things planned - all next to work - and I can't wait to show you more of my styling experiences and drawing progress.

Behind the scenes from my first photoshoot. 
Beautiful Sarah is wearing The Kooples Jacket, Vintage white linen Tee, Marni Sequined Collar, Louis Vuitton FW14 Pants and Louis Vuitton SS15 Sandals.
Stay tuned for more!

Tuesday, February 24, 2015

Proenza Schouler FW15

There was something very theatrical about this Proenza Schouler collection and I have to say that it was quite spectacular to watch, something new I personally really appreciated. After seasons that were more minimal, these silhuettes seemed to be a good mix between minimal and modern elements such as the heavy, almost origami like, wrapped around the silhuette coats and free flowing, light elements that made the silhuette appear less stiff such as the fishnet tights, the feathers and deconstructed sequin tops. You can see where they came from - it almost looks like the collection is "deconstructing" itself in front of your eyes: the coats become tops but the element of "wrapped around" is still present, the fishnet tights become metal circles encrusted in transparent dresses - somehow it all made sense and yet if felt like something I've never seen before, at least not at Proenza Schouler. If anything, some silhuettes had something Célinish about them,the feathers and transparent dresses added this theatrical feel to it that always reminds me of Givenchy. What felt the most typical for the brand? The prints that looked like some things they already did - the black lines on colored background reminded me of their "color splash" print from a few seasons ago. 

Something old, something new - to me, it worked. 
Really, really interesting collection and incredible craftsmanship 
(can we talk about the number of sequins used on these tops please?) 
A pleasure to watch.

all pictures via style.com

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

A Face To Watch: Freya Lawrence.

Freya Lawrence might not be on your list yet but you definitely need to look out - after winning the attention of several well known photographers such as Jamie Hawkesworth and scoring the Spring Summer 2015 Céline Ad campaign this young lady has a bright future ahead - I mean just look at this perfectly beautiful, odd face. 14 years young and one of the most "impossible-to-get" Ad campaigns already on her list? Pretty smooth start. 

mother agency: select model management (London)
first and third picture courtesy of Céline
second picture courtesy of  Jack Davidson

Sunday, February 15, 2015

Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2015

A new great collection to complete the wardrobe of the LV woman step by step...so many desirable pieces that you just want to mix with your already existing wardrobe or to create a whole new one. Nicolas Ghesquière does not dissapoint with his new vision that he maintains for the Louis Vuitton woman: a dynamic, working, travelling and ambitious woman hidden in every one of us.

You can discover the entire collection on www.louisvuitton.fr or on www.style.com